Saturday, September 02, 2006

Sorry about the string of identical posts. You have no idea what I just went through to try and delete the extraneous ones. At first it was going okay, though slow, but at the fifth try the page conked out halfway through and suddenly began displaying a mix of HTML and - I'm not kidding - pictures of naked women. The computers here are all rife with viruses, but... is there some kind of virus that surreptitiously hides porn in the HTML of blogger pages, only to be seen when page loading fails? When I publish this, will there be a bottle blond in a lavender chemise looking seductively at you, one finger stretching the band of her G-string, between this word and this one? I must know if this happens.

I am in a kind of bipolar daze at this stage in my trip. Is two weeks early for the bipolar stage? Is there even a bipolar stage in culture shock? I am seized by manic energy, especially when I come to this internet cafe, and I sit and finger the piano notes to the bad music that is always playing in an attempt to diffuse it so I can think, but it only revs me up more, and there are all these '404 page not found' errors, and Google admonishes me in the form of telling me my internet connection is too slow for the standard view, which, yes, okay, just get on with it, and by the time...

Here's the thing. This is not what I feel like at almost any other time. I am gripped with melancholy in the late hours of the night, or, not melancholy exactly, but a sense of emptiness, and it can't be filled with gado-gado or men leering, leering constantly, or with mango trees, even, or with my housemates, my fellow teachers, their initial friendliness and the dropoff, later, as they realize I am nothing special. It's hard to try and be something special, to sell myself as anything other than someone who just likes quiet and a good variety of books after the long hours straining my voice so nineteen apathetic teenagers can hear me. It's hard to keep up appearances. I'm in my pajamas halfway through a Saturday, furiously reading Crime and Punishment, as it pours rain on the scattered tin roofs above and below our own tin roof, and everyone else sprawls on the cushions in the hallway, shrieking with laughter, or if not that, somber and intense, and they have this; they've been stuck in Wamena with no tent or food together, been lost below towering cliffs on Black Sands beach together, had pitch black evenings under one of many electrical outages together. We - they and I - have nothing. And with two of them leaving next week, they don't care to start having anything, or building towards having anything.

It's hard even to write this. I look at my students' bowed heads when they're working on a project I've given them and I get wild bursts of 'What the fuck is going on? How did I get here? Who are these people?' My voice is quiet and nobody can hear me, of course, as I somehow totally failed to anticipate, so I have to raise my voice to what is, to me, screaming, and the tone - what must the tone sound like? - I am their teacher, but... I don't feel it, and do they feel it? Is this confusion I read, or defiance? They can't tell me. They are meant to be learning a language from me, and I can't correctly articulate a sentence. I can't correctly articulate a feeling, not even in writing. Not lately.

How I feel is not how I appear, even more so than usual. I have one person I see 24 hours a day, one person to whom I can confide everything, whom I ask for comfort, with whom I chose to share this entire year - and I feel most of the time like I never want to see him again. He... I could fill pages and pages with the little things he does that irritate me, and I'm sure he could fill the same amount of pages with those things about me, and I'm not sure if I've been driven insane by the sudden responsibility of 40-something students and 13 lesson plans per week and no variety of food and no variety of company and the immense irriation will, therefore, pass, or... that for the remaining 351 days I will feel constantly like I want to implode.

Tomorrow I hope to go to Base G beach and float among the coral for awhile. Last time we went, a Papuan villager and her three sisters played Frisbee with me, and by the end they were all more skillful than I was. There are things like this, of course, that, while they are happening, more than make up for everything else. But then we get in the cab and the driver's eyes light up at the prospect of asking more than the going price and us not having the language tools to protest, and, sure enough, we get home and he asks for 20,000rp instead of 4,000rp. Drivers keep doing this. Every day. I wonder every day, too, as I walk from Brasco Station to school, maybe a mile over rough stone sidewalks with oddly placed holes: when will people get used to me? There are horns honking and shouts and stares and people actually whirling around to look at me as I pass. There are conversations I can't make out, frustration on every face in the market if I don't stop. I'm not exaggerating. Nobody looks even remotely like me. Nobody is blond, nobody over 5'6". But if, every day, I walk past the same people, and every night, I walk the other way going home, wouldn't you expect that they would grow weary of me?

What I want is to be ignored. I suddenly want to live alone.

2 comments:

Dan Reynolds said...

I have dived into the pool of solitude and one-bedroom apartments and small kitchens and high rent and cooking when I want and cleaning when I want and listening to music when I want and turning the lights off when I want and talking to myself and becoming bored with myself and talking to things that aren't myself and I can tell you that it's every single bit of what you think it is and then it's a little more of what you don't.

All storms, even lengthy rain storms, can be weathered. But they aren't weathered passively. You may not have the power to change the fact that you're being rained upon, but you can change and control what you do in response.

You can get a rain coat, and get rubber boots for your giant feet, and you can buy an umbrella. And maybe that's not easy to see because maybe an umbrella isn't nearby or the umbrella store is closed when it's raining. But you can improvise and shield your platinum hair with a flimsy newspaper.

You are not powerless.

You are not powerless.

You may not be able to escape, no, but you are in control of more than you give yourself credit.

Being alone, hiding in the crowd, sneaking along the sidelines, this has been your easy way out. Your denial to deal with the storm you've been faced with, but no more.

You put yourself in a position where there is not an easy way out and you did this because deep down there's courage and strength and will.

That is your power and you only need to unleash it.

You're in the deep end and it might seem right now that you're there because you jumped off the diving board across an ocean and into the paupan water, but that's not the case. You're there because you swam there. You swam there because you have the strength to swim when a lot of people would've given up.

So you gotta stick it out in the deep end for a while.

Tread water, float on your back, relax, focus, and take control.

If you close your eyes, slow your breathing, and listen you'll hear the slow trickle of water lapping around you.

That's not current, it's not from waves, it's from your own fingers as they paddle slowly around you.

If you open your eyes you'll notice that you're there, you're doing it, you're already treading water, you're okay!

And you will BE okay.

Tips on treading water:

1) calm your breath.
People who drown are often doing so because they've become frantic, they panic and they lose conscious control of their limbs. A calm breath will in turn calm your body and mind and keep you from losing control.

2) your lungs will help you float.
Your lungs are like giant air tanks and if you calm your breathing and lean back you'll probably be able to float on your back.

3) use your legs.
A lot of people forget they have more resources available to them than they first think, never forget that you have a full body of power in your control.

4) focus and create a rhythm.
If you panic then you become sloppy. Make sure your hands scoop well and focus on creating efficient strokes. Your hands don't need to leave the water to tread, doing that can turn into wasted energy. Deal with each problem in a focused and controlled manner and in no time you'll create a moment to moment, event to event rhythm that will let you go on indefinitely.

5) Never let anyone else take you down.
Approaching another treader can be very dangerous. Someone in the process of drowning may grab ahold of you and try to climb on top of you in an unconscious effort to keep themselves above water. You need not interact with every other person treading water with you. Keep arms distance for your own safety and appraoch with caution.


Know that no matter how many crazy potato people ogle the wacky white woman there are people here who care about you and are virtually 'here' for you to virtually lean on for virtual support... virtually.

Anonymous said...

seeing as he wrote the 'jungle book,' i thought this poem fitting. and if you ever need to vent, you know how to find me.




If you can keep your head when all about you
Are losing theirs and blaming it on you;
If you can trust yourself when all men doubt you,
But make allowance for their doubting too;
If you can wait and not be tired by waiting,
Or, being lied about, don't deal in lies,
Or, being hated, don't give way to hating,
And yet don't look too good, nor talk too wise;

If you can dream - and not make dreams your master;
If you can think - and not make thoughts your aim;
If you can meet with triumph and disaster
And treat those two imposters just the same;
If you can bear to hear the truth you've spoken
Twisted by knaves to make a trap for fools,
Or watch the things you gave your life to broken,
And stoop and build 'em up with wornout tools;

If you can make one heap of all your winnings
And risk it on one turn of pitch-and-toss,
And lose, and start again at your beginnings
And never breath a word about your loss;
If you can force your heart and nerve and sinew
To serve your turn long after they are gone,
And so hold on when there is nothing in you
Except the Will which says to them: "Hold on";

If you can talk with crowds and keep your virtue,
Or walk with kings - nor lose the common touch;
If neither foes nor loving friends can hurt you;
If all men count with you, but none too much;
If you can fill the unforgiving minute
With sixty seconds' worth of distance run -
Yours is the Earth and everything that's in it,
And - which is more - you'll be a Man my son!
-Rudyard Kipling