Friday, November 03, 2006

My Indonesian is more broken than usual at the bank. I don’t know tenses. How can I say that I’m meant to have Rp. 10,000,000 ($1000) in my account, my full two-months pay, but instead have only 126,000 ($12.60)? How can I make it clear that my ATM card has obviously been stolen, that every transaction made in the past few weeks is unauthorized? Is it as obvious to them as it is to me that I couldn’t cancel my card because the bank was closed all week for Idul Fitri, and the whole time the bank was closed, this person kept withdrawing millions of rupiah per day? Most of all, how can I make them understand that I’m not rich, that without the salary I’ve earned since I arrived in Indonesia, I won’t be able to eat? In Indonesia, bules are rich; that is all there is to it. If you’re a bule, you have a lot of hardcore-porn-style sex, with anybody who asks, and you have a giant house and a fancy car and anything you do is just for amusement, because you have a cushy job your rich daddy got for you straight out of university, and any money that is stolen from you you probably deserve to have stolen, because anyone else needs it more than you do.

I won’t be getting any of it back. And this means, basically, that I’ve been working full-time in a lonely country, enjoying maybe half of it, the teaching-adults half, but dreading the teaching-children half with such intensity that there hasn’t been a night where I haven’t had nightmares about school, for a boss who demands materials-request forms for supplies as obviously necessary as sheets of white paper and whiteboard markers, and then often denies the requests, all so he can save a few pennies when he’s already quite independently wealthy, especially for Indonesia, and… I have been doing all this, and becoming ill with unexplained maladies, and eating rice for every meal, here, in Jayapura, for over two months, and my reimbursement for all of this is: $12. My salary was already somewhere around $3 an hour, but it has effectively just dropped to $.03.

It is causing me psychological turmoil, though, beyond just the initial brute rage and the temptation to loll depressively around the house, because I know that, despite this, I will live; I will not die, I will not starve, I will not lose my house – the house is free, the meals will come, somehow, from Nick’s salary, and in Indonesia, if you are poor, you get health care anyway. I am upset about the theft and I am angry with myself for being upset about the theft. I mourn the loss of the financial ability to visit other parts of Indonesia, like Hiron’s village in the highlands near Wamena, or the temple at Yogyakarta, or even just Biak, the Papuan version of a resort, at the same time that I suddenly become aware of the thousands of people who have never left Jayapura. I will miss my monthly treats to myself in the form of the expensive (by Indonesian standards; about $7 a meal) Chinese restaurant up the hill, and, but, here are people, right in front of me, every day, who eat fried rice for every single meal. It’s confusing. It’s confusing! I don’t know what I have the right to feel. While I hope that the person who took the $1000 is spending it on a lifesaving operation for their mother or something equally cliché, I know it’s infinitely more likely that they took it straight to Sip (the rich people’s mall) and bought a new surround-sound stereo system. It doesn’t matter what they did, anyway.

Maybe the thing that bothers me the most is that, when I return to Boulder, I won’t have enough money saved up to even put the security deposit down on an apartment. Because of this, I probably won’t be able to return to Boulder. And Boulder is where I want to be.

Louise takes my face in her hands when I tell her. It is a perfect gesture, but maybe just to me because I know if anybody hugs me I will burst into tears. She spends the next half hour brainstorming ways to help. It quickly disintegrates into distraction, because it becomes obvious that nothing will help, and she whispers in Indonesian to Hiron what happened, and then adds in English, to me, “I know! We can just sell Hiron.”
“How much do you think you can get for him?” Nick asks.
Hiron, who understands more English than he lets on, cut in: “Duapuluh.” (Twenty.)
“Duapuluh apa? Rupiah?” She laughs. Twenty rupiah is .2 cents. “Duapuluh ribu?”
“Duapuluh juta,” Nick and I say in unison. Twenty million. Still only $2,000, though. The gears of our minds grind slowly around the translation, how cheap it turned out, and then at the same time again, we say “Duapuluh juta juta.”
Twenty million million. It’s about two billion US$. Hiron smiles and looks down. “No, no, no, no, no…”

Anyway, nasi sudah menjadi bubur. Roughly, and very roughly, nothing I can do to change anything now.

5 comments:

ohmygodimmike said...

I'm sorry to hear what happened and That really sucks, I've been reading your posts religiously and have been saddened with jealosy for what you're lucky enough to be experiencing. I'm stuck in a city I've lived in my whole life going to school in hopes to get out of here. If it makes you feel any better I would rather be in Indonesia teaching for free than here. The grass is always greener to be cliche. but it's true. and I've been robbed in other countries and know how unfair it feels, but us Americans don't really know what unfair is. as shitty as working a job you don't like for free is, it will be a learning experience and I garauntee you will be glad you did it even if you lose every pay check for the rest of the year.

ohmygodimmike said...
This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.
Anonymous said...

let people know if you need anything to get by. i'm sure there is at least a handful of us willing to help out if possible..

Anonymous said...

god, hannah, that sucks. can you exchange us dollars somewhere there? all i can say is that it's cool you can at least be philosophical/reflective about it, with the "this is how lots of people in indonesia live daily" thoughts. but i think you still have a right to be mad; you did work for that money after all. anyway. it's good you have a few people there who can help you out as you need it, and it really really sucks that your money was stolen. and there will be a way to get you home too, when you're ready. there are too many people back here in the us who miss you to leave you stranded. :)

Hannah Enenbach said...

Ryan and Camille: no no, I'll be able to get by (and to get home for that matter, because the school pays for tickets both ways) but thank you. Really.

ohmygodimmike: I'm glad my blog is entertaining enough to hold the attention of people who don't already know me (at least, I don't think you do...) and I agree with you, that being in a totally different country is completely worth it, no matter how I may bitch at times. Teachers here complain about the low salary, but it's enough that you only spend about 1/3 of it if you're lavish, and really, what else does one need, other than being alive and experiencing amazing culture shock?